Before the middle of the 19th century, cane sugar was not the principal sweetener in the United States; it was too expensive. Molasses was more widely used, and here in the Northeast, maple sugar. By 1860, however, partially refined brown sugar (called muscovado) was as cheap as maple sugar and easier to measure than slow-running molasses.

As a result of cooking with the muscovado, some of the best “old” recipes acquired their special flavor from brown sugar and butter. You will note that neither of these recipes (outlined below) requires much fussing. This seems to prove (to my delight) that some truly delicious cake desserts can be quick and easy and not come out of a box.

Brown Sugar Lightning Cake

• 1 stick unsalted butter, melted
• 1½ cups all-purpose flour
• 2 tsps. baking powder
• ¼ plus 1/8 tsp. salt
• 2 large eggs, room temperature
• 1 cup packed light brown sugar
• ½ cup buttermilk or ¼ cup whole milk mixed with ¼ cup plain yogurt
• 1 tsp. vanilla extract
• 1 tsp. bourbon (optional)
• Confectioners’ sugar for dusting

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Brush the inside of a 9-inch straight-sided round cake pan with a little of the melted butter. Spoon a teaspoon or two of the flour into the pan to coat the insides. Tap out the excess flour.

Place a sifter or strainer over a bowl and sift together the remaining flour, baking powder and salt. Stir with a whisk and set aside.

Crack the eggs into a medium bowl and whisk until blended and frothy.

Whisk in the sugar and beat until well blended.

Add the flour mixture, using as few strokes as possible. Then whisk in the milk, the remaining melted butter and the flavorings. Pour the batter into the prepared pan.

Bake the cake 35 to 40 minutes, or until it tests clean. Cool the cake on a rack for 5 minutes, then invert it and cool completely. Turn the cake right side up onto a platter. Sift some confectioners’ sugar over the top and serve.

(Adapted from “The Improvisational Cook” by Sally Schneider)

Hurry-Up Caramel Cake

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and lightly flour two 9-inch round layer pans.

Stir together in a large mixing bowl: ½ cup granulated sugar and 1 cup light brown sugar. 

Stir into the sugars: 2¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour, 1 tsp. salt and 1 Tbsp. baking powder.

Add and mix at low speed until the dry ingredients are moistened. Beat at medium speed until smooth: 8 Tbsps. soft unsalted butter and 1 cup milk.

Scrape bowl and beaters. Add, and beat at low speed: 2 large eggs and 1½ tsps. vanilla extract.

Beat again at medium speed until smooth. Bake in preheated oven for 30 minutes or until the cake begins to pull away from the sides of the pan. Cool in the pans for 8 minutes. Turn out and cool completely.

Fill and frost with the following frosting.

Hurry-Up Caramel Frosting

• 8 Tbsps. soft unsalted butter
• 1 cup light brown sugar
• 1/8 tsp. salt
• 5 oz. evaporated milk

Stir this mixture over medium heat until butter is melted, sugar dissolved and the surface is covered with bubbles. Remove from heat and add 1 tsp. vanilla. Beat in a half cup at a time: 4 cups confectioners’ sugar (more or less). Work quickly to frost cake as this tends to harden up.

This recipe, which was adapted from “The Wooden Spoon Dessert Book” by M.M. Moore, serves 10-12.

Allene White lives in Brooklin.